Lonar : The Ancient Town

We completed our Lonar trip with a day spent in the town, exploring the Daitya Sudan Temple. The earlier two posts, about the Lonar Crater and the Lonar Crater Temples are also worth looking at. This ancient village/town has more to it than these two areas, and in our limited time, we tried to explore it.

Lonar is a tiny village/town in Maharashtra where, about 50,000 years ago, a giant meteor crashed into earth, creating a large circular lake of 1.4 km diameter, which has saline water. In the circumference of the lake are 10 ancient temples, perhaps from the 9th Century AD.

The Lonar MTDC Resort is the place to stay, although an old PWD Guesthouse is also available on prior notice. We recommened MTDC anytime, as here it was neat, clean and rather unoccupied.

The town has an ancient temple called ‘Daitya Sudan Mandir’. Legend has it, Lord Vishnu had killed a Daitya, Lavanasur, here. Next to the temple is a Bramha – Vishnu – Mahesh temple. The idol of Mahesh is missing and has been replaced by an idol of Garuda.

The temple of Daitya Sudan is considered a fine example of the Hemadpanthi style of architecture. The temple has three niches, each dedicated to Chamunda, Surya and Narasimha. Each niche feels like a complete temple in itself. The walls and ceilings of the temple are elaborately carved with various figurines depicting various scenes from the scriptures, scenes from everyday life and stories. Try and keep a day only for this temple.

Apart from the temple, we came across a fascinating ancient ‘step well’ from the times of the Chalukya Dynasty. Locally called the ‘Limbi Barav’, the well is in a state of dis-repair, but fenced by the Archaeological Society Of India. On each of the four walls is a niche for idols which are now missing. On the east side is a balconied pavilion. There are Saptamatrikas carved on the space inside the balcony, suggesting there must have been an idol of a goddess. These seven ‘mothers’ can be “Brahmani, Vaishnavi, Maheshvari, Indrani, Kaumari, Varahi, Chamunda and Narasimhi.”

 

PWD Guesthouse Lonar
The old Public Works Department Guesthouse is located favourably overlooking the Lonar Lake.

Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
The fabulous Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar, is a fine example of the Hemadpanthi style of architecture.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Note how the main gate of the temple seems to have been broken and later made of bricks in a very mughal style arch.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Elaborate Khajuraho style carvings on the Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
We fell in love with the details in the beautiful figurines at Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
The beautiful Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar, is shaped like an irregular star.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
What look like faces of ogres at the Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Ramesh, our wonderful guide, took us through the history of the temple and the town.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Another side of the Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar. It seems there was more of a structure which seems to have fallen apart over time.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Image of Ganesha at the door centre flanked by Kalashs on either side.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Ishwar Laxman Shingne is the mild mannered ASI Caretaker, who single handedly looks after this fabulous temple.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
I can’t get over the beautiful detailing here.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
It was very dark inside the temple, but with our flashlights, we managed to get some detailing in this old carving of Lord Krishna playing the flute.
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After the original idol of Lord Vishnu went missing, the Bhosle Rulers of Nagpur donated this current idol.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
On the same temple complex is an outhouse type temple of Bramha Vishu Mahesh.
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
The idols of Bramha and Vishnu, and Garuda instead of Mahesh. Was it originally like this?
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
It’s not everyday that one comes across an idol of Lord Brahma
Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar
Outside the Daitya Sudan Temple, Lonar is the smaller outhouse for Garuda and another temple.
Lonar, Maharashtra
What looks like a Hanuman temple in the lanes of Lonar, Maharashtra
Lonar, Maharashtra
An old house with a grocery store, Lonar.
Step Well, Lonar
We came across this gorgeous step-well, the Limbi Barav on the Loni Road.
Step Well, Lonar
The balconied pavilion at the Step Well in Lonar. The niches in the wall once contained idols of gods and goddesses.
Step Well, Lonar
Detailing at the balcony at Step Well, Lonar
Step Well, Lonar
Once can see niches across the walls for idols.
Step Well, Lonar
A panoramic shot of the step well at Lonar. One can wonder how it must have been a flourishing town which attracted enough attention from the rulers to build all of this.
mtdc_lonar
MTDC Lonar is a nice, green and clean place to stay.
mtdc_lonar2
The rooms at MTDC Lonar are like cottages. It’s completely worth it.

If you want to see Lonar the way we did, take out at least three days. And you must get Ramesh as your guide. Write to us at admin at desicreative dot come for his phone number.

[box type=”success” width=”100%” ]When to visit: As is with most places in India, winters are the best time. Summers are too hot and the lake waters would be very low. Monsoons, it rains a lot.

Where to stay : MTDC has a fabulous and inexpensive hotel right next to the crater. That’s the best place to stay here, although there are a couple of lodges. Email us for numbers.

How to visit : Lonar is 4 hours by road from Aurangabad and 8 hours from Pune. Its about 12 from Mumbai. How long to visit: Keep your visit to a minimum of three nights. The first night you reach and crash. The second day, start the day early for a 6am trek. It will take around 5 hours if you visit each of the ten temples in details. You need a third day to visit the other ancient temples in the town of Lonar. If you had a fourth day, you could drive around, its a beautiful place.

What to wear : Since much of the visit will be a trek through a forest, do be prepared, wear full sleeved clothes to avoid insect bites, wear good water resistant boots, since you will be walking n the muddy lake banks.[/box]

10 thoughts on “Lonar : The Ancient Town”

  1. Wow, Daitya Sudan Temple looks marvelous! It might be less-known compared to other temples in Maharashtra, but it seems to be worth a visit for its intricate carvings and interesting sanctum — speaking of which reminds me of some Trimurti temples in Indonesia. However usually Shiva is in the middle, flanked by Brahma and Vishnu. So I’m really curious why in Daitya Sudan case Vishnu is in the middle. Does that indicate the Vaishnava nature of the temple?

    Reply
    • Good observation, yes it does, I guess, because Vishnu had slain the ‘Daitya’ here… So I guess its in his honour. But we will probably never know, since over the years, deities change and a lot of appropriation happens.

      Reply
  2. Wow I didnt even know anything about Lonar except for the lake. There is so much to see in India! I sometime feel so overwhelmed and proud of our country’s heritage!

    Reply
  3. It is one of the most beautiful temples I’ve ever visited.Hemadpanthi architecture is magnificent and all the sculptures on outer wall are lively.But unfortunately, the temple and neighbouring places are not well maintained.Most of the locals are not aware of the historical importance and this place is not sufficiently advertised by tourism department.Sadly such a significant place is not on tourists’ map

    Reply

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